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Fabric Dictionary

Textile Terms and Definitions

Acrylic		A synthetic fiber of which at least 85% is acrylonitrile (vinyl cyanide) and the remaining is some other vinyl compound. Orlon was the first acrylic fiber to be developed. Acrylic fiber is more flammable than nylon or polyester. It is strong but has poor elasticity. Acrylic is produced in staple form and is spun on both the woollen and worsted systems. Acrylics have a wool-like handle and are used for knitting yarns.

Batiste		Cotton batiste is a lightweight, sheer, delicate fabric in a plain weave. Similar to cotton lawn, but thicker. Batiste has a very delicate hand. It has a graceful drape, and is often mercerized to add luster. Cotton batiste is excellent for an underliner, and lining for linen clothing. Also used for baby clothes, blouses, lingerie and handkerchiefs. Relatively easy to sew, but may catch on your machine's foot. It's delicate: wash batiste in a gentle or delicate cycle. Avoid bleach.

Broadcloth		Three major types: (1) Originally, silk shirting fabric so named because it was woven in widths exceeding 29 inches (74 cm). A fine, smooth, closely woven fabric in plain colours or in woven stripes; also known as silk shirting, It has a plain weave, used for shirts and dresses. (2) Plain, closely woven fabrics of either carded or combed cotton or polyester/cotton yarns with a filling wise rib effect. Originally a poplin or adapted from a poplin construction. Broad Cloths are of light weight with a finer rib. Ribs are made by using finer warp yarn and medium filling. Better broadcloths of 144 x 76. Coarser fabrics often have both ply and single carded yarns. (3) A fine wool fabric of twill weave, fueled to achieve uniform texture. The surface is then napped, closely sheared, and polished to give a glossy, velvety hand . Good draping qualities. Used for suits and coats.

Canton		A strong twilled cotton fabric made in two qualities, the heavier grade in a two up, two down twill, the lighter grade in a two up one down twill. In the gray state, bleached or dyed bright colours, it is exported from England where it derives it's name.

Canton Flannel		A carded cotton fabric woven with a four-harness warp face twill with heavy,soft,filling yarn, and a medium count warp. A long nap is raised on the back. The fabric may be unbleached or bleached. It is sold in the gray for work gloves. Heavier qualities are dyed various shades for use in rubberized fabrics. It is also dyed or printed. Uses: men's and woman's nightwear, underwear, interlinings, sportswear, etc.

Canvas		A general classification of strong, firm, closely woven fabrics usually made with cotton; originally made of hemp or unbleached flax. Produced in many grades and qualities and may be softly finished or highly sized. The terms canvas and duck are used interchangeably but canvas usually refers to heavier constructions.

Carded Yarn		A fiberous, uneven cotton yarn made of short staple cotton fibers from which most of the impurities have been removed by carding. Not as clean, compact, lustrous or strong as combed yarns; most cotton yarns, however, are carded, because the bilk of the cotton crop is too short for combing. While other yarns, such as spun rayon, are just carded and not combed, the distinction of carded yarn versus combed yarn occurs only in the cotton industry.

Carding		Preliminary process in spun yarn manufacture. The fibers are separated, distributed and equalized, and formed into a thin web and condensed into a continuous, untwisted strand of fibers called a sliver. This process removes most of the impurities and a certain amount of short, broken or immature fibers. The operation is performed on a card.

Cheesecloth		Originally used as a wrapping material for pressing cheese. Loosely woven, thin, light in weight, open in construction, and soft. Carded yarns are always used. It is also called gauze weave. When woven in 36" widths it is called tobacco cloth. When an applied finish is added, it is called buckram, crinoline, or bunting. yarn count 36x30 to 20x20 per sq. inch Uses: In the gray cloth, it is used for covering tobacco plants, tea bags and wiping cloths. Finished cloth is used for curtains, bandages, dust cloths, cheap bunting, hat lining, surgical gauze, fly nets, food wrapping, e.g. meat and cheese, costumes and basket tops.

Comb		A unit of textile yarn manufacturing machinery used in certain cotton and all worsted operations as well as certain other textile fibers. Its function is to remove the short fibers or noils from the material being processed so that the resulting yarn may be composed of larger fibers. The comb straightens and arranges them in parallel order, in the form of sliver. inexpensive fabrics which use carded yarns tend to peel more easily.

Combed Cotton Yarn		A cotton yarn which has been combed. The yarn is more even, compact, has fewer projecting fibers and can be spun into finer counts than carded cotton.

Corduroy		A ribbed pile fabric with a high, soft luster. made with extra filling threads or extra warp threads. In weaving, the extra filling yarns form loops or floats over the ground threads. After weaving, the loop threads are cut on a special machine. Threads are then brushed, forming a pile.

Damask		Very old type of figured fabric, first made of silk in Damascus. Elaborately woven on jacquard loom, the fabric has satin floats on a warp satin background; the surface design runs in the opposite direction from those in the background. Now it is a figured fabric made with one warp and one weft in which, generally, warp-satin and weft-sateen weaves are used. Made in different fibres and weights.

Denier		The international system for the number of silk and man-made filament yarns (except glass yarns) and fibers. The low numbers represent the finer sizes and the higher numbers, the heavier yarns. Officially defined as the number of unit weights of 0.05 grams per 450 length. Denier is equivalent numerically to the number of grams per 9000 meters. In the English numbering system #1 denier has 4,464,528 yards to the pound and #2 denier has 2,232,264 yards to the pound. The term originally referred to an old French coin worth approximately one twelfth of a French sou, weighing 19.6728 English grains, and its weight was used as the unit in measuring the size or number of silk. Also called the legal denier. Originally the denier system was applied to raw silk rather than thrown silk, the dram system being used in Great Britain and the U.S. for the latter. However it has become the standard designation all over the world, not only for the size of silk but for man-made fibers. Denier is also used to indicate the linear density of a man-made staple, for example, a staple is said to be 3 denier if 1,488,176 linear yards of the staple (were it continuous) would weigh one pound. While the standard of denier now is established at 0.05 grams per 450 meter length.

Denim		A well - known basic cotton or blended fabric. Right hand or left hand twill constructions, usually in the latter weave. Generally, the warp is dyed blue or brown with a white filling. The fabric is very durable and is popular for all types of garments from work clothes to sportswear and evening wear. Variation in structural design and coloring has increased the demand for denim in the fashion fabric field during the 1970s. The term "denim" was derived from the French "serge de Nimes" a twill fabric which was made in Nimes, France. A term synonymous with denim is " dungaree." A course, blue denim used for work clothes; originally used for sailors' work clothes.

Drill		A strong , warped-faced twilled, cotton fabric, medium to heavy weight generally made with coarse carded yarns in a two up, one down left handed twill, in a dense construction. Resembles denim. Similar clothes made with a three up one down twill are often called drill. Also made in herringbone effects of a shadow stripe type. Derived from the Latin word trilex, which means three threads (The weave pattern of most drills repeats on three threads.) Used in gray, bleached, dyed,printed, for a wide variety of uses, e.g., uniforms, book binding, backing for coated fabrics, Industrial fabrics, ticking.

Dry Goods		A general term for all textiles i.e., blankets, hoisery, although in recent years more for yard goods and domestics.

Duck		A broad term for a wide range of strong, firm, plain weave fabric, including the heaviest, strongest, single woven fabric made; duck is usually made of cotton, although sometimes linen is used. Different types of duck include:(1)duck in which both warp and filling yarns are single; (2)duck in which the warp yarns are single and the filling yarns are plied; (3)duck in which both warp and filling yarns are plied. The most important ducks are numbered duck, army-type duck and flat duck. Numbered and army-type duck are woven with a medium or heavy plied yarns, army-type ducks are a lighter weight. Flat ducks always have single warp yarns woven in pairs and single or plied filling yarns. Most ducks are firm and closely woven but some are soft and pliable. The fabric has a variety of uses:in the gray for belting, bags, sails, and other industrial purposes; for tents, awnings, tarpaulins, washable utility clothing, etc. There are numerous specific types of duck including enameling duck, harvest duck, hose duck, shoe duck, etc. The terms canvas and duck are often interchangeably, but "canvas" often is used to refer to heavier constructions. The term "duck" had its origin before the mid 19th century when all canvas for sails was imported.

Fabric Construction		To get technical, fabric is always described in terms of yarns per square inch. The warp times the weft looks like 60x60 or 100x100. For example a 60x60 sheeting means 60 yarns in the warp and 60 yarns in the weft with a total thread count of 120 yarns per square inch. 100x100 is a tighter weave of a 200 threadcount. 108x58 is a twill weave, 108 yarns in the warp and 58 in the weft. The next thing you must know that reveals the nature of the fabric is the size of the yarns. 60x60 (20's) means the yarns are size 20. This will yield a 4oz/ sq yd fabric. 60x60 (14's) will yeild a 5oz /sq yd fabric. In other words the smaller the number, the larger the yarn size. A little reverse logic to try and confuse you!

Flannel		A full napped woven fabric, made generally of wool yarns. Usually woven with a twill weave, which may be obscured by the nap. Distinguished for its softness. Used for bath robs, skirts, men's suits and trousers. Cotton flannel or flannelette is similar in appearance.

Flax		This fibre is taken from the stalk of the Linum usitaatissimum plant. It is a long, smooth fibre and is cylindrical in shape. It's length varies from 6 to 40 inches but on average is between 15 and 25 inches. It's colour is usually off-white or tan and due to it's natural wax content, flax has excellent luster. It is considered to be the strongest of the vegetable fibres and is highly absorbent, allowing moisture to evaporate with speed. It conducts heat well and can be readily boiled. It's washability is great, however, it has poor elasticity and does not easily return to it's original shape after creasing. Uses: Apparel fabric. When processed into fabric it is called linen. It is also used for tablecloths, napkins, doilies, twine, aprons, fishing tackle, and nets.

Fleece		Fibre: Wool, cotton and poly/cotton blends Weave: knitted, weight varies from 10 to 16 oz/sq. yd Characteristics: Has a deep, soft nap or pile, obtained by heavily napping with wire brushes or with a pile weave. This provides air space giving good insulating properties without too much weight. The inter-lacing s are will covered by the nap. The nap wears out in time, but good quality cloth gives good wear. Range from cheap to expensive clothes. Material is often cumbersome and bulky, therefore it may be difficult to manipulate. Also, the name for the entire coat of wool taken from a sheep at shearing time. Uses: Mostly used for coats for men, women, and children.

Flock		Very short fibres obtained by reducing textile fibres to fragments as by cutting, tearing, or grinding and intended for application to a substrate as a partial or complete surface covering or filler. Many fabrics may be 'flocked' with very short fibres stuck to it and their characteristic is that the right side of the fabric has tufts of fibres added in dots or patterns.

Greige		French grège raw (of silk), from Italian greggio being in an unbleached undyed state as taken from a loom. Depending on the size and quality of the yarn, greige fabrics have a 5-15% residual shrinkage.

Hemp		Hemp is a bast fibre that was probably used first in Asia. The fibre is dark tan or brown and is difficult to bleach, but it can be dyed bright and dark colours. The hemp fibres vary widely in length, depending upon their ultimate use. Industrial fibres may be several inches long, while fibres used for domestic textiles are about 3/4 inch to 1 inch (1.9 to 2.54 cm) long. The elongation (1 to 6 percent) is low and its elasticity poor. The thermal reactions of hemp and the effect of sunlight are the same as for cotton. Hemp is moth resistant, but it is not impervious to mildew. Coarse hemp fibres and yarns are woven into cordage, rope, sacking and heavy-duty tarpaulins. In Italy, fine hemp fibres are used for interior design and apparel fabrics. uses: clothing, bags and casual wear

Herringbone Twill		It was named after the skeleton of the Herring as this is what the fibre pattern resembles. It is usually created in wool and has varying qualities. It is also known as Arrowhead. Uses: Suiting, top coatings, sports coats.

Interlock		A double-faced rib-based structure consisting of two 1x1 rib fabrics joined by interlocking sinker loops, it is made on machines equipped with two sets of opposed needles

Jersey		Fibre: Wool, worsted, silk, cotton, rayon, and synthetics. Weave: Knitted on circular, flat-bed or warp knitted methods (later popular as a tricot-knit). Characteristics: Right side has lengthwise ribs (wales) and wrong side has crosswise ribs (courses). Very elastic with good draping qualities. Has special crease-resistant qualities due to its construction. Is knitted plain or has many elaborate tweed designs and fancy motifs as well as printed designs. Can look very much like woven fabric. Wears very well and if washable, it washes very well. First made on the Island on Jersey off the English coast and used for fisherman's clothing. Stretch as you sew. Uses: Dress goods, sportswear, suits, underwear, coats, gloves, sweaters, hats.

Melton		Fibre: Wool, sometimes combined with synthetics. Weave: Twill or satin weave. Characteristics: Thick well fulled or felted wool with a smooth surface. Napped and very closely sheared. Coarse meltons are similar to makinaws but made of finer yarns and finished with a smoother, more lustrous surface - used for "under collar cloth" in lighter weights. Very solid cloth due to the finishing processes that completely conceal the weave. It wears very well. Wind resistant. if made in tan or buff colour in a coarse quality, it is called "Box cloth". It is classed with kersey, beaver, and broadcloth. Originated in Melton, Mowbray, England, which is a fox hunting report in england. It was first made as a hunting cloth. Looks like wool felt - pressed flat. Uses: Mostly used for men in overcoating, uniform cloth of all kinds (army, navy, etc., as well as police and firemen), pea jackets, regal liverly. Used for heavy outer sports garments and coats for women.

Monk's Cloth		Fibre: Wool, cotton, linen, silk, rayon, or synthetics. Weave: 4 x 4 basket weave. Characteristics: Quite heavy, due to construction. It is difficult to sew or manipulate as the yarns have a tendency to slide, stretch and fray. May sag in time depending on the compactness of the weave. It can also be made in other basket weaves. Quite rough in texture. Uses: Draperies, all types of upholstery and house furnishings. Also used for coats and suits for women and sports coats for men.

Muslin		A large group of firm, plain weave cotton fabrics in a wide range of quality and weight, which varies from lightweight sheers to heavyweight sheetings, and may be given a great variety of finishes. Muslins are used for a great variety of purposes, e.g., underwear, aprons, linings, shirtings, dress fabrics, sheets, pillow cases, furniture coverings. Muslin is one of the oldest staple cotton cloths and was first made in Mosul, mesopotamia, where it derived its name. According to Marco Polo, in the end of the 13th century fabrics made of gold and silver thread in Mosul were called mosulin. In the middle ages it applied to heavy, course cotton fabrics made in Mosul. India began to produce a great variety of fine cotton muslins, often printed with gold and silver leaf, and for a long period muslins were imported from the East by the European countries, especially France, from India. They were first made in Europe, in Paisley, Scotland, about 1700.

Oilcloth		Originally, textiles such as cotton were coated in oil to create resistance to moisture. Now, resins from plastics are used instead of oil. Olefin is a very versatile fibre with excellent flexibility. Uses:Waterproof garments, book bags, belts, bibs, pencil cases, luggage, surgical supplies.

Oxford		A Plain basket weave of medium or heavy weight. Made with a variety of cotton, Rayon, or polyester/cotton yarns. The majority of oxfords are of combed yarns, with heavier filling than warp yarns. Cheaper grades are mixed carded yarns, two warp yarns, placed flat next to each other, are woven over and under one heavier filling thread. Usually mercerized. A number of variations of this weave are on the market . For shirting's, dresses, and similar purposes.

Pique		Fibre: Cotton, rayon, synthetics. Weave: Lengthwise rib, English crosswise rib or cord weave. Characteristics: Originally was a crosswise rib but now mostly a lengthwise rib and the same as bedford cord. Ribs are often filled to give a more pronounced wale (cord weave). Comes in medium to heavy weights. It is generally made of combed face yarns and carded stuffer yarns. It is durable and launders well. Wrinkles badly unless given a wrinkle-free finish. Various prices. Also comes in different patterns besides wales. Some of the patterns are birdseye (small diamond), waffle (small squares), honeycomb (like the design on honeycomb honey). When the fabric begins to wear out it wears at the corded areas first. Uses: Trims, collars, cuffs, millinery, infants wear, coats, and bonnets, women's and children's summer dresses, skirts and blouses, shirts, play clothes, and evening gowns.

Polyester		An extremely resilient fibre that is smooth, crisp and particularly springy. It's shape is determined by heat and it is insensitive to moisture. It is lightweight, strong and resistant to creasing, shrinking, stretching, mel dew and abrasion. It is readily washable and is not damaged by sunlight or weather and is resistant to moths and mildew.

Polyurethane (PU)		Any of various polymers containing the urethane radical; a wide variety of synthetic forms are made and used as adhesives or plastics or paints or rubber. Also, various resins, widely varying in flexibility, used in tough chemical-resistant coatings, adhesives, and foams.

Poly Vinyl Chloride (PVC)		A common thermoplastic resin, used in a wide variety of manufactured products, including rainwear, garden hoses, phonograph records, and floor tiles.

Poplin		Two major types (1) Originally a fabric having a silk warp and a filling that consisted of a wool yarn heavier then silk, thus producing a ribbed surface something like a rep (2) Now made of staple fiber, Heavier filling then warp yarns and more threads in the warp than filling, giving a heavier rib effect then broadcloth. Print cloth yarns mostly Combed yarns in the better cloth. Many mixture made. Poplin comes in many variations, such as slubs, nubs, and yarn-dyed checks and strips Mainly dyed solid colors or printed. Often given special finishes, such as water-repellent, fire-retardant, mildew proof.

Rayon		This cellulose fibre is highly absorbent. It’s drapability and dyeability are excellent and it is fairly soft. Rayon does have a tendency to shrink but does not melt in high temperatures. It is resistant to moths and is not affected by ordinary household bleaches and chemicals. Uses:Clothing, draperies, upholstery, carpets, tablecloths, bedspreads, automobile tires, conveyor belts, hose.

Sateen		A Cotton fabric usually woven so that the surface is smooth and the finish lustrous, resembling satin. Can be either a strong warp-face sateen or a softer filling-face sateen. Often, though not always, filling sateen's have a softer finish than warp sateen's. Either carded or combed yarns.

Satin		Originally silk, now also of filament man-made fibers with a highly lustrous surface and usually a dull back. Made in different weights according to its uses, which vary from lingerie and dress gods to drapery and upholstery fabrics. May be made with a cotton back. Sometimes double-faced for use as ribbon.

Seersucker		Fibre: Cotton, rayon, synthetics. Weave: Plain, slack tension weave. Characteristics: Term derived from the Persian "shirushaker", a kind of cloth, literally "milk and sugar". Crepe-stripe effect. Coloured stripes are often used. Dull surface. Comes in medium to heavy weights. The woven crinkle is produced by alternating slack and tight yarns in the warp. This is permanent. Some may be produced by pressing or chemicals, which is not likely to be permanent - called plisse. Durable, gives good service and wear. May be laundered without ironing. Can be bleached, yarn dyed, or printed. Some comes in a check effect. Uses: Summer suits for men, women, and children, coats, uniforms, trims, nightwear, all kinds of sportswear, dresses, blouses, children's wear of all kinds, curtains, bedspreads, slipcovers.

Sheeting		Plain weave. Mostly carded but occasionally combed yarns in all weights: light, medium, and heavy. Generally about the same number of yarns in warp as in filling, but often warp yarns are heavier than filling. Sheeting comes in both wide and narrow widths. Yarn size rang from 10s to 30s, the larger the number the finer the yarn. May be made of cotton or any other major natural or manmade fiber.

Silk		It is obtained from cocoons of certain species of caterpillars. It is soft and has a brilliant sheen. It is one of the fines textiles. It is also very strong and absorbent.

(Ultra) Suede		Fibre: Wool, cotton, rayon, synthetics and blends. Weave: Plain, twill, or knitted. Characteristics: Napped on one side to resemble suede leather. Short, close nap gives a soft, smooth hand. When made in cotton, it resembles duvetyne, but heavier. Uses: Cleaning cloths, gloves, linings, sports coats.

Terry Cloth		Fibre: Cotton and some linen. Weave: Pile, also jacquard and dobby combined with pile. Characteristics: Either all over loops on both sides of the fabric or patterned loops on both sides. Formed with an extra warp yarn. Long wearing, easy to launder and requires no ironing. May be bleached, dyed, or printed. Better qualities have a close, firm, underweave, with very close loops. Very absorbent, and the longer the loop, the greater the absorbency. When the pile is only on one side, it is called "Turkish toweling". Uses: Towels, beachwear, bathrobes, all kinds of sportswear, children's wear, slip covers, and draperies.

Tweed		Fibre: Wool, also cotton, rayon, silk, linen, and synthetics. Weave: Twill, novelty variations, or plain. Characteristics: It is the Scotch name for twill and originated along the banks of the Tweed river, which separates England from Scotland. Sometimes known as "tweel". Sistercloth of homespun cheviot and shetland. They are the same in texture, yarn, weight, feel, and use. Originally only made from different coloured stock-dyed fibres, producing various colour effects. There are a wide range of rough surfaced, sturdy fabrics. There are also some closely woven smoother, softer yarn fabrics, and many monotone tweeds. May also be plaid, checked, striped, or other patterns. Does not hold a crease very well. Uses: Wide range of suits, coats, and sportswear for men, women and children. Lighter weight, used for dresses.

Velour		Fibre: Cotton, wool, or spun rayon. Weave: Thick, plush pile, we only have the knit velour (80/20 cotton/poly) Characteristics: The pile is characterized by uneven lengths (usually two) which gives it a rough look. The two lengths of pile create light and shaded areas on the surface. A rather pebbled effect. This type of velour was invented and made in Lyons, France, in 1844. "Velours" is the French term for velvet. "Cotton velour" is simply cotton velvet. Uses: Hats, dressing gowns, dresses, waist-coats, upholstery. Now most commonly sold as knit velour.

Velvet		Fibre: Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics, and a little wool and worsted. Weave: Pile, made with an extra warp yarn. Characteristics: Mostly made with a plain back but some with a twill. Some are made with a silk pile and a rayon or cotton back. Terms comes from the Latin "vellus", meaning a fleece or tufted hair. Comes in many types, qualities, and weights. Good velvet wears fairly well and is inexpensive. The cheaper cloths give little service and look well only a few times before beginning to deteriorate. Better velvet may be crush resistant, water resistant, and drapes well. Has to be handled with care, and pressed on a velvet board. Cut all one way. For the maximum amount of depth in the colour, cut with the pile running up. it also wears better when cut this way. Velvet should be cut with very simple lines in the garment, so not to destroy the beauty of the fabric. It has the tendency to add weight to the figure. Uses: All types of after 5 wear, at home wear, draperies, upholstering.

Warp		The threads stretched lengthwise in a loom, through which the crosswise threads are woven.

Weft		The threads running from side to side across a woven fabric.

Yarn Spun		Woolen system: Description of yarns, fabrics or garments made of yarns of carded wool, more loosely twisted than 'worsted' yarns. Woollens, usually have a fuzzy surface as contrasted with a smooth surface of most worsteds. Worsted system: Spinning of worsted yarns from medium or longer wools, alpaca and mohair. Generally the processes employed are carding, combing, drawing and spinning. The short fibres or noils are removed in combing and the resultant yarn is rather compact with the fibres placed parallel. The process is quite different from the Woollen system.